Cycling from London to Birmingham may not have instant appeal but considering it encompasses the Thames Valley Cycle Route, Shakespeare Cycleway and parts of National Cycle Network routes 4 and 5, it all adds up to be a cracking multi-day adventure.
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This adventure is part of a bigger mission: completing a coast-to-coast route from Dover in Kent to Aberystwyth in Wales by stitching together established cycle routes and sections of the National Cycle Network. This ride will officially become Section 2. With luck, Section 3—from Birmingham to Aberystwyth—will be tackled in summer 2025, followed by planning the final leg from Dover to London thereafter.
Day 1 - London to Maidenhead
Living near the Thames, it’s been the backdrop to countless adventures over the years. My wife and I are currently walking its entire length, from source to sea. It was also the setting for our Lidl canoe adventure with my mates. I’ve crossed it daily on my commute into central London and fished its waters at Cricklade with my grandad during my early teens. This time, the Thames was to play a starring role in the first two days of our four-day cycling journey from London to Birmingham.
Tim and I set off on National Cycle Network Route 4—more specifically, the Thames Valley Cycle Route—from Putney Bridge on a Thursday morning in late July. It was warm enough for short sleeves, though the lingering grey coolness in the air had us packing the full UK summer kit: waterproofs, arm warmers, sunscreen, and a trusty neck buff. The first few miles hugged the south bank of the Thames, winding past an array of prestigious boat clubs—no doubt the training grounds of countless champions, past and present. Then the trail swung south, carrying us into Richmond Park, famed as much for its roaming deer and ancient trees as for hot laps on a Pinarello Dogma.
We crossed the park diagonally and reconnected with the Thames at Teddington Lock, where the river becomes tidal heading east. Here, we joined the well-traveled riverside paths, popular routes used by thousands annually for walking, cycling, rollerblading, or simply enjoying the view of boats and swans from a riverside café.
Heading east, we crossed the Thames at Kingston Bridge, then again at Hampton Court Palace, winding our way onward to the Shepperton Ferry six miles later. This crossing was similar to those on my South Coast NCN2 adventure: ring the bell to summon the boatman, navigate our bikes down the narrow stepped ramp to hop aboard for a short ride across the river to the slipway on the far side. With twenty of our forty miles already behind us, it was the perfect excuse for a well-earned break—coffee and cake at the aptly named Ferry Coffee Shop, perched conveniently on the northern shore.
A brief summer shower had us taking cover under the canopied entrance of a Sainsburys supermarket, just after crossing back to the south side of the river at Staines. It was also where we left the Thames behind for the next ten miles, heading toward Windsor and its expansive 4,800-acre Royal Park. We pressed on to Cooper’s Hill, having been warned that its incline would get the heart pumping after the mostly flat riding we’d enjoyed so far. The route was described as “off-road,” but as seasoned National Cycle Network travellers, our 35mm touring tyres had just enough grip and volume to haul our loaded bikes up the steep, gravelly climb—though with a bit more heavy breathing than we’d have preferred.
The next five miles carried us through the stately Windsor Great Park—a grander, less touristy version of Richmond Park. We made a quick stop for tea and cake at Auntie Janis’s coffee wagon before continuing on quiet back roads into Windsor itself, passing the nearly 1,000-year-old Windsor Castle standing proudly to our right. Another bridge crossing returned us to the north side of the Thames, leading into Eton, home of one of the most prestigious and historic boarding schools in the world. A sharp left turn then guided us toward Eton College’s Dorney Lake. If you’ve ever watched a river-based sporting event in England, chances are Dorney Lake featured at some point. My last visit was back in the early 2000s, during a three-person triathlon event. My task? Ride the lake’s three-mile rectangular circuit four times as quickly as possible.
At a more leisurely pace this time, we skirted its northern edge and passed through the small but affluent village of Bray, home to two of the UK’s five Michelin three-star restaurants. In stark contrast to the last few miles, our accommodation was a slightly more modest Travelodge and beer and burgers in the Maiden's Head... in Maidenhead...
Day 2 - Maidenhead to Oxford
We left the Maidenhead Travelodge heading east toward Reading, fueled by a full English breakfast and accompanied by a slight chill in the morning air. The first three miles were a stop-start affair, weaving through urban sprawl on fragmented cycle lanes and dodging curbside rubbish collections. But once we crossed the mainline railway out of Paddington, the city fell behind, and we were back in open countryside once more.
In order to avoid the Bath Road, the route turned onto gravelly woodland trails up and over Knowl Hill. It would have been great to see the Thames again between Wargrave and Newtown but with no road or cycle path available, the tranquility of the early morning forest quickly disappeared as the route rejoined the Bath Road for a rather tedious and noisy three miles. Reading is a vibrant town blending rich history, modern business hubs, a thriving arts scene, and scenic riverside living along the Thames and Kennet. And, as we joined its outskirts, we recognised the picturesque parks and riverside paths as the route out of Reading on Cycling UK's the King Alfred's Way. At seventeen miles in, we crossed the Thames and decided Warings Bakery on the busy pavement of Caversham High Street would do for elevenses and to take stock of the next section of our route.
The Thames winds its own leisurely path to Wallingford, cutting through the Chiltern Hills at Goring. Our route, true to form, took us up and over. Trading NCN 4 for NCN 5, we began a steady eight-mile climb through the scenic back lanes and wooded beauty of Wyfold and Checkendon. At first, it seemed the thick tree cover would deny us any sweeping views from the top of the Chilterns. But as we descended the north side of the ridge, the trees parted, revealing golden fields of crops and a stunning view across the valley below.
We skipped our 25 mile suggested stop at Stoke Row, pausing to enjoy the aerial acrobatics of five or six Red Kites, gracefully circling above the crop fields as they scanned and dived for their prey below. Wallingford was a pretty town, full of old buildings, tea shops and bunting. Our entertainment for the fifteen minutes it took to devour our filled rolls was watching the local taxi, bus and car drivers vie for the only three parking spaces in the market square.
As our journey progressed, we checked off more charming back roads, thatched cottages, an incredibly steep railway bridge crossing, and a detour around Didcot power station. We didn't see much of the Thames beyond Reading, but we reconnected with its flat towpaths and varied bankside life for the final few miles leading into Oxford.
The riding conditions had been spot on today—sunny and warm with just a whisper of a breeze to keep us cool. Our well-earned reward for knocking out 52 miles? A hearty Bhuna for me and a spicy Balti for Tim. The perfect way to refuel after a day in the saddle.
Day 3 - Oxford to Stratford-upon-Avon
Over fish and chips at The Crown Pub at the end of day 3, our conversation turned to the average distance between rural towns and villages. We reckoned it must have been determined by how far a horse could travel before needing food and water. With absolutely no scientific basis, we settled on fifty miles—coincidentally, also what we agreed was the sweet spot for a solid day’s cycling. National Cycle Network Route 5, however, had other ideas. Its somewhat meandering path between Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon stretched just under seventy miles—about twenty too many for day-three legs pedalling bikes that felt twice their usual weight...
Some twelve hours earlier, and well ahead of this revelation, we were carefully threading our bikes through the Travelodge corridors using a combination of foot jams and elbow holds to get our loaded bikes to the front foyer undamaged. We emerged blinking into the bright sunlight, paused to allow our GPS's to find their satellites, then set off to pick up the Thames once again. Barely a mile in, we left behind the early morning calm of riverside wildlife and the gentle rhythm of a coxless four gliding by, trading it for the architectural grandeur of Oxford city. Famous for its prestigious university and iconic limestone buildings, Oxford is also home to a lively cultural scene and a thriving cycling community, thanks to its web of bike-friendly streets. And it was those very streets that carried us from the city’s southern edge to its northern outskirts.
At the north end of Oxford we left the Thames for the final time, its route west to its source in Kemble, ours north to Stratford-upon-Avon. We passed Oxford airport and Blenheim Palace all from a hedge lined cycle track along the busy A44 dual carriageway. Then it was into Woodstock where we left the security of the populated environment and dived into a landscape of tiny villages, country lanes and well manicured crop fields. The next forty miles took us along quiet single-lane roads and rolling hills, skirting the northeastern fringes of the beautiful Cotswolds and just a stone’s throw from the well-heeled haunts of the Chipping Norton Set. Now and then, a car would rumble past, its tyres echoing like a jet engine against the otherwise peaceful backdrop. We kept a steady pace northwest, passing through Middle Barton, Over Worton, Nether Worton, and Barford St. Michael—ancient names so common in this part of the world; to us a pleasant ticklist, each one bringing us a little closer to our destination.
Just after we turned west on the outskirts of Banbury, we caught the Cross Cotswold Pathway, leading us towards Madmarston Hill—once an ancient Iron Age hill fort from around 200 BC. From our vantage point, the world below unfolded like a living toy set, with life-sized Britains farm figures—the same ones we once played with as kids—hustling through the golden fields in a well choreographed flurry of harvest-time action. As we cycled past the yellow wheeled farm vehicles we came upon a sea of vibrant blue star-shaped flowers atop soft, fuzzy green stems, thrumming with the low buzz of bee's going about their work. A quick Google search named the plant as Borage, used for culinary, medicinal, and cosmetic purposes. Medicinally, it's used to reduce inflammation, promote healthy skin, and support hormonal balance and the leaves and flowers have a mild cucumber flavour which are often added to salads, teas, and (my favourite) gin!
We stopped for a late lunch, perched on the grassy verge of someone’s (very long) driveway, before climbing back into the saddle for the final thirty miles. The next twenty passed in a pleasant rhythm of undulating terrain, golden-stoned thatched cottages, and perfectly trimmed lawns dotting the landscape. The rural villages of Sutton-under-Brailes, Shipston-on-Stour, Darlingscott, and Ilmington all rolled by in a blur of countryside beauty.
The sky had gradually darkened over the latter part of the afternoon and as we reached the Stratford Greenway, another well recycled rail line, the first rain drops began to fall. Thankfully it was only a brief shower which in turn cleared the grey cloud for the sun to break through once more. Coming to the end of our energy reserves, we passed through Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare's birthplace, not really having enough time to savour its delights on our way to our YHA accommodation. And so we sat in the pub that evening, reflecting over distances, horses and villages and deciding fifty miles a day cycling is far more civilised than seventy.
Day 4 - Stratford-upon-Avon to Birmingham
We were racing the clock today, with just seven hours to cover 47 miles before our non-refundable 3:45 p.m. train home. It sounded easy enough on paper—until the first stretch turned out to be more suited for a boat than a bike…
Before that, we had rolled through Stratford-upon-Avon, soaking up as much of its charming Tudor architecture and rich cultural history as one can in a mile and a half at ten miles an hour. To be fair, we were already familiar with the town—our first visit was on a family canal boat holiday, where Dad managed to ram the dock wall and snap the wooden mop we’d been using as a makeshift mast... good times! We’d already covered two-thirds of the canal path before discovering the river had practically swallowed the trail ahead. Rather than turning back, we stubbornly pushed on, lugging the bikes through the muddy final stretch to our bridge exit. By the time we escaped Stratford’s grasp and its genteel charm, an hour had passed—average speed: six miles an hour.
The next ten miles to Studley led us along peaceful back roads once more, tracing the meandering River Arrow and skirting ancient field boundaries. Skirting Redditch, we passed through Ipsley Meadow—a wild green haven preserved by the local community against encroaching urban sprawl.
We had initially planned to have lunch in Redditch, but after thoroughly searching the nearby cafes by St. Stephens Church, we found nothing. As time was pressing, we decided on a quick stop at a Tesco Express on the way out of town to grab sandwiches, bars, and crisps to sustain us for the upcoming miles. After choosing instead, pork pies and sausage rolls, we continued on, aware of the ticking clock.
As we approached Birmingham, the countryside areas became less frequent. The greenery between Bromsgrove and Rubery was only as large as the towns. Country lanes transformed into urban parks, and urban parks into urban sprawl. Nevertheless, there were still sanctuaries for trees and wildlife. The Rea Valley route led us directly into the centre of Birmingham, leaving us with just one mile of city traffic to navigate before we arrived at Birmingham New Street station with thirty minutes to spare.
Today seemed like a connecting segment within a broader journey, similar to the stretch between the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors on Wainwrights Coast-to-Coast. It was enjoyable cycling through beautiful countryside but truth be told, we'd been spoilt on the first three days. With half an hour to spare, we loaded up on carbs and boarded the train, sliding our bikes into their racks and collapsing into the designated cyclist seats. As the train whisked us swiftly south, the reality of the trip began to sink in. Four days and £300 on food and accommodation to cycle from London to Birmingham—only to return home in an hour and a half on a £15 train ticket. Perhaps there isn't always a logic to cycling, but it's always an adventure!
How to ride From London to Birmingham on NCN4 & NCN5
Route
The route primarily consists of a number of National Cycle Network routes, parts of which are named as part of a more local trail. The route out of London follows NCN 4 / EV2 (Eurovelo 2) all the way to Reading. Just before the town centre, the route switches to NCN 5 which ultimately takes you right the way to Birmingham. Oxford, at the end of day two, marks the split from the River Thames, its course continuing westwards as this route turns north. The route also encompasses the Thames Valley Cycle Route, Shakespeare Cycleway, Cross Cotswold Pathway and the Rea Valley Route. The route is just over 200 miles (320km) long and has around 2,100m of climbing (6,800 ft). We chose to split the trip into four equal days with a slightly shorter first and last day to allow for travelling. As usual the brilliant cycle.travel provided a wealth of information, the following links capturing the majority of the route and make for excellent pre-ride reading:
Clicking on the map (title) above takes you to the Ride with GPS route we used for this adventure. Please feel free to download and modify to suit.
Day 1 - Putney to Maidenhead. 42 miles (68km) | 330m ascent | max grade 9%
Putney, Teddington (8), Kingston (10), Hampton Court (12), Shepperton Lock (19), Staines (25), Coopers Hill (27), Windsor Great Park (30), Windsor Castle (35), Maidenhead (42).
Day 2 - Maidenhead to Oxford. 52 miles (84km) | 55om ascent | max grade 6.5%
Maidenhead, Holly Cross (7), Charvil (11), Reading Bridge (17), Kidmore End (20), Stoke Row, (24), Wallingford (31), Didcot Power Station (41), Abingdon (45), Oxford (52)
Day 3 - Oxford to Stratford-upon-Avon. 63 miles (100km) | 725m ascent | max grade 4.6%
Oxford, Woodstock (9), Middle Barton (18), Barford St. Michael (23), Bloxham (25), Bodicote / Banbury (29), Sibford Ferris (37), Shipston-on-Stour (46), Ilmington (50), Lower Quinton (54), Stratford-upon-Avon (63)
Day 4 - Stratford-upon-Avon to Birmingham. 44 miles (100km) | 725m ascent | max grade 4.6%
Stratford-upon-Avon, Wilmcote (3), Coughton (10), Studley (13), Redditch (18), Bromsgrove (26), Rubery (33), Kings Norton (39), Moor Green (41), Birmingham New Street Train Station (44)
Getting to the start
This is a one-way trip so using public transport to get to the start, and to travel home at the end, is probably the easiest. Tim and I both chose to cycle to Putney for the start, given we don't live too far away. Public transport into London is good from any direction. Likewise at Birmingham, so travel at both ends should be fairly easy to organise. Just be wary of travelling into London at peak times with a full-size bike as there will be restrictions on timings depending on the train operator.
Terrain
Approximately 82% paved & 18% unpaved
The terrain is classic National Cycle Network. Gentle undulation, backroad tarmac, town and city cycle lanes and a few stretches of gravelly byways. Any gravel, hybrid or touring bike with around a 35mm touring tyre would suit this route perfectly.
When to go
Aside from the prime cycling months of May to September, this route could be ridden pretty much all year round. While there may be slightly less amenities open, choosing to ride this route in the shoulder months of March/April or October/November would be feasible given the frequency of towns and villages the route passes through. Check for the ferry service across the Thames at Shepperton and pack suitable warm clothing.
Accommodation
Day 1 - Travelodge Maidenhead Central. 99 King St, Maidenhead SL6 1DP
Day 2 - Travelodge Abingdon Road. Abingdon Road, Oxford, OX1 4XG
Day 3 - YHA Stratford-upon-Avon. Hemmingford House, Wellesbourne Rd, Alveston, Stratford-upon-Avon CV37 7RG
Eating
One of the attractions of this route is its fluctuation between urban and countryside environments. There's always a place to stop either at a cafe, to enjoy a slice of cake, or a convenience store to gather supplies. For the first couple of days, in and around the River Thames, we were spoilt for choice for snack stops, pubs, restaurants and shops. On the latter two days, things were slightly more sparse given we were well into rural countryside. We stopped for food at the following places, outside of what our accommodation provided:
The Ferry Coffee Shop. The Ferry Point, Ferry Ln, Shepperton TW17 9LQ
Auntie Janis's. St. Leonards Rd, Windsor SL4 3DR
The Maidens Head, 34 High St, Maidenhead SL6 1QE
Warings Bakery, Caversham. 32D Church St, Reading RG4 8AU
Greggs, 5/6 Market Pl, Wallingford OX10 0EG
The Old Delhi, 4 Park End St, Oxford OX1 1HH
Co-operative Food, High St, Bloxham, Banbury OX15 4LU
The Crown Inn at Tiddington, 14 Main St, Tiddington, Stratford-upon-Avon CV37 7AZ
Tesco Express, Willow Way, Redditch B97 6PH
Birmingham New Street Train Station, East Mews, Birmingham B2 4PY
Convenience stuff
A quick Google search at any point along the route should bring up public conveniences within a reasonable riding distance. Check for opening times if possible, as toilets sometimes get locked up overnight and for the winter as soon as the main summer season has ended. Bike shops are reasonably frequent for the first couple of days, one even being next to the Ferry Inn at Shepperton. Thereafter, you'll probably be limited to the bigger towns and cities.
Equipment
The route is best suited to a touring, hybrid or gravel bike. National Cycle Network routes always seem to feature a slightly rough section of trail so a fast rolling tyre with a reasonable width and degree of tread would be ideal. We both carried a variation on the list below; this being my personal kit:
Fairlight Secan 2.5, running Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 700 x 35 tyres; a 2x 30/46T x 11-36t GRX drivetrain.
Ortlieb pannier rack, with Axiom (2x12ltr) panniers, Topeak top tube bag (1ltr) and a Straight cut Designs Aon frame bag (2ltr).
Cycling clothes: Helmet, gloves, glasses, cycling shoes, cycling shorts (bibs), wool cycle jersey, cycle gilet, arm warmers, neck buff, overshoes and waterproof jacket. Spare set of bib shorts and cycle jersey.
Casual clothes: Down jacket, light weight fleece, zip off trousers, socks, underwear, light weight trainers.
Wash kit, towel and first aid / medical items. Inc. chamois cream and sun cream
Mobile phone, Garmin 830 GPS, GoPro Hero 10, charger, cables.
Bike tools, innertube, pump
Front and rear lights, bike lock, bell.
1.5 ltrs (2 x water bottles) carried on the bike, snacks.
Final thoughts
We thoroughly enjoyed this adventure for several reasons. Point-to-point journeys, in my opinion, offer a stronger sense of purpose—you’ve physically travelled from one destination to another. While round trips have their own appeal, there’s something especially satisfying and rewarding about reaching a far-flung place, particularly by bike. The diverse terrain added to the experience, taking us through bustling cities, around well-tended fields and along the River Thames; a landscape shaped over thousands of years. The stretch from Oxford to Stratford-upon-Avon was a highlight, reminding us that the kind of idyllic cycling we read about in old books, the ones with those amazing pen and ink sketches, is still very much alive and waiting to be enjoyed, even today.
There was also something special about travelling between two major cities along forgotten lanes, far from the roar of motorways and the hurried pace of modern life. While others would be undertaking the journey in their speedy cars, covering the same distance in just a few hours, we were making our own way—undetected, almost in secret—slipping through the countryside as though hidden from modern life. It was a chance to connect with the landscape on a far more intimate level and for a while, it felt like we had found a parallel world all of our own.
Happy Adventuring!
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